New York Fashion Week has a new model, and I’m not talking about a new Hadid sibling (although a Hadid is leading the discussion for it all). I’m referring to the See Now, Buy Now format that many designers chose to embrace this fashion week. A new relationship between catwalk and retail – an immediate relationship.
Suzy Menkes referred to watching Thakoon’s SS17 show as a metaphor, the sun setting over Brooklyn Bridge, like the sun setting on what was fashion week as we knew it. Menkes likes to call it DFN: Designer Fashion Now – and if you don’t have a clue what I’m talking about – it’s basically designers showing their collections – which used to come out the following season – but instead having them readily available to buy now.
Tommy Hilfiger took the bull by the fashion horns with their ‘Gigi Hadid x Tommy Hilfiger’ Fall 2016 Fashion Show. Even the hashtag #TommyNow reinforced the changes that are taking place in the fashion industry and instantly – the brand was trending worldwide. Hilfiger were smart to make this step with one of the biggest models of the moment, who could also enlist one of the biggest pop stars of the moment Taylor Swift to sit front row, in a full TH look, and light up social media. What I found interesting is that TH have almost reworked the brand, noting the revival of the old school Tommy Hilfiger tees and sweaters that are being marked (way) up at every vintage store and on every ebay account going. And this collection is logo heavy, with almost a Vetements / Justin Beiber aesthetic. It’s a smart move and one that has everyone talking, and so it seems, every one shopping.
I’ve always believed that fashion, especially luxury fashion should be timeless. Designers like Alice Archer, Alaia and Erdem create collections and pieces that go beyond the fashion seasons, and should be worn whenever one would like to. But with commercial designers like Tommy Hilfiger, the time for reviving the cult effect of their brands is key. The collaboration collection is available everywhere now – from the company website, to Selfridges and ASOS so the Buy Now part has no limitations!
Gigi’s bestie aka Taylor Swift
For a few years fashion week has lost its lustre. I stopped going to New York Fashion Week because as an Editor, I just didn’t need to. Once I could watch it on livestream and go to the re-sees I could do my job. The rise of social media overtook fashion in a negative way. People who weren’t ‘industry’ suddenly filled the FROWs and Fashion Week really lost its way. But for the first time in a long time it seems the buzz may have just returned with this retail revamp – for this ‘season’ anyway…
See Suzy Menkes’ article on Vogue.co.uk here.